Appetizing relief, almost surreal calm, something is missing: the wind has stopped!
In the south of France, the mistral is a strong wind that usually blows from the north or northwest. Mistral, the name of this wind means “master”, and in my opinion, it certainly lives up to that reputation. The mistral usually blows hard, flavoring at times up to 100km/hour as it speeds up the Rhône and Durance rivers towards the Mediterranean. The mistral typically brings with it a change to cooler, dry weather and clear, blue skies. This can be a relief in the hot days of spring and early summer, or a curse in late fall, as it can lead to chilly temperatures.
There are two French expressions, which this author believes to be accurate descriptors of the mistral”the wind that drives you crazy“(the wind that drives you crazy) and “the wind of thieves“(the wind of thieves). The mistral can blow for only a couple of days or even a week. A strong mistral will usually send cafe patrons indoors and make golf games virtually impossible to play. The beautiful plane trees of Provence, with their noisy leafy canopies provide excellent cover for burglars, as even dogs cannot hear their approach.
Like any wind, the mistral cannot be seen with the naked eye. His presence is known only by cold flavors and crazed supremacy over man, beast, and flora. In a weird way, you can almost see rock outcroppings being formed by the sheer force of this unseen energy. Olive trees in Provence are usually pruned to keep them small in size, making it easier to harvest in the fall. It also allows the trees to cling tightly to their tiny buds as the wild wind tries to loosen them. The mistral has impacted the architecture of the region for centuries. The typical farmhouse or plus it was built to face south with its back to the wind. The bell towers of the churches have openings to allow the passage of the wind. Stone walls and interior patios are built for some minor relief. Even 3,000 years ago, the stone dwellings called bored they were built in a way to evade the wind.
Often the wind can bring some relief to a hot and humid climate. However, that brief respite is quickly forgotten as sleep becomes next to impossible for days on end. Wind can be a real threat at certain times of the year, when conditions are dry and there is a risk of wildfires. We experienced our first mistral in October when we explored Provence on our bikes, it was a shock. That particular mistral was strong enough to nearly knock over both the bike and the rider. It was certainly cold enough to warrant jackets and, in my case, long gloves.
A traveler to Provence may get lucky for a short stay and miss the wind completely. Or they may experience totally unpleasant force for days on end. Then one day dawns and something has clearly changed, there is a sense of peace. Olive and fruit trees can resume their production cycles in calm. The visitor can once again explore the glorious region.
