Waterproof a basement: DIY tips and what NOT to do

Two things to do BEFORE spending money – First thing: Check your downspouts and gutters. A clogged gutter or broken downspout can be the bane of any basement. Imagine pointing a fire hose at your basement wall … yes, it’s that bad. Make sure your downspout is directed about 5 to 10 feet away from the house and beyond the point where its slope drops. If you can’t stand it, grab your child stronger, grab a shovel, and have him buried; because taking it off is not an option. Second thing: check your rating. If your garden leans towards your house (even in one area), all the rainwater will run straight into it and puddle against your foundation … even if the wind is blowing the other way. You do not believe me? Ask Murphy. If you have a problem with a sloping sidewalk or driveway, there is a process called “slab lifting” that will elevate these areas by pumping material underneath.

Are you still getting water? Alright, then it’s time to call in the pros. There are two ways that water can get into a basement (and I don’t include a leaky water pipe). The first thing you have to do is determine, “Where is that damn water coming from ?!” Your two options: through the wall or through the floor. If you don’t have Irish blood, it could be coming in from both. Sometimes it’s easy to tell apart, but SOMETIMES it comes right from where the floor and wall meet and it gets a bit tricky. Go downstairs during a storm and watch it come in. Look for signs of water or significant moisture on the wall or floor. Keep in mind that if a puddle forms on the ground, it doesn’t necessarily mean that’s where it’s coming from (you’d be surprised …)

If you come in through the wall, count your blessings, good. Don’t get me wrong, it still sucks, but your solution is a lot less expensive and doesn’t require breaking the concrete floor. If you are entering through your floor, well, keep religion out of it.

Wall Water / Moisture – about 90% of people with problems (this percentage is not based on any real statistics, just my experience)

Sometimes it’s been there since you moved in 10 years ago and you’re sick of the puddle on the floor. At times, it came up randomly and incomprehensibly, like Katy Perry’s fame. Either way, it’s time to put an end to it (we talk about the wall water again … I think)

Wall Moisture – If you have nothing but a tiny bit of moisture that produces a musty smell, FIX YOURSELF. There’s no point spending thousands of dollars for a waterproofing sales rep to come and sell you something you don’t need. Pick up a bucket of oil-based drylock paint from your nearest Lowe’s, Menards, or Home Depot store and apply a thick coat to the wall.

Crack in the wall / Water in the wall: There are a couple of ways to solve this, depending on the severity of the problem. One way is to use the oil-based drylock paint mentioned above. But note that this is still “Paint”. It will retain water through a couple of heavy storms, if you’re lucky. Some companies recommend an “epoxy shot” and they work great … for about 7 years. The problem with epoxy is that it crystallizes and as changing weather temperatures cause it to expand and contract, it will crack again and you will be left with the same headache. Even worse if you finished your basement and have to tear down the drywall and expose the moldy insulation. Another “solution” is to excavate the entire exterior wall and apply a layer of tar along the base. This thin layer crystallizes in about 5 years and you have to do it all over again. “But wait a second, we are in the 21st century and that sounds inefficient and ignorant.” If it is. But some people still do, especially new construction companies. It’s cheap and lasts longer than your home warranty. My favorite way is with bentonite clay (Dr. Seuss be careful). Bentonite clay is one of the oldest products on the market and has been used in structures such as the suction dam and when oil rig drillers hit an underground lake. The way that bentonite works is that it absorbs as much water as it can handle and then rejects the rest. For example: a thin layer is spread on the bottom of artificial lakes to prevent water from seeping into the ground. Now take this principle, flip it over and then glue it to the outside of your wall. Creates a waterproof membrane barrier that blocks water. The best part is that it can be injected into the outer wall of the base via rods the size of a silver dollar, running every couple of feet along the outside … That’s right, no digging required. Other advantages: it prevents water from entering the wall from the OUTSIDE, which helps to increase the longevity of the wall; it never fully crystallizes, so you won’t have a problem 5 years from now; helps block radon; It will go back flexible (yeah yeah I know) every time the water hits it so it will actually embed itself into future cracks that could create a problem. The process is called “bentonite clay injection”. Unfortunately, not many companies do this because the equipment is very expensive and may require a second application if there are large voids under the floor; which means that the company pays twice the costs of labor, gas and materials (the owner usually only pays for the initial treatment and the rest is under guarantee).

Hydrostatic pressure (water rising from the ground) – The unfortunate 10%

When it comes to hydrostatic pressure, there is only one way to fix it. A drainage tile system. Whether it’s an indoor or outdoor system, there is one thing to keep in mind: they are all the same. All companies will try to convince you how your system is better, but at the end of the day, it’s just an underground pipe leading to a sump pump or drain field. This system is not ideal because it involves cutting your floor. Ultimately, you are jeopardizing the strength of your foundation. Not that your house is going to collapse or anything, but it should be avoided if possible.

So how do you choose a company? The only thing this can be based on is online reviews and time in business. Keep in mind that every business will have a bad appraisal from some owner who called them at midnight when a pipe in the roof had a leak and got mad at having to pay a service charge, but for the most part these are quite reliable. . Time in business is crucial because the average waterproofing business only lasts about 15 years. What if you try to sell your house and they have closed (voiding the warranty), or they go bankrupt and develop a minor problem that would be an easy fix but ends up costing you $ 2,500? Exactly … spend a little more now and stick with the big name company.

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